Part 2: Rustic Telok Melano

(This post was first written for www.worldisround.com in 2004. Time has passed, and what was true then may no longer be so. For example, the bridge across the Kayan River in Lundu has now been completed. The bus station in front of Kuching General Post Office is also no longer there. So read this as a travelogue from a time past. Some amendments have also been made.)


So where do tourists visiting Telok Melano and Tanjung Datu stay? Actually, the villagers (not all of them) are involved in the home-stay programme. Tourists can book their accommodation through the village head or directly with villagers who are involved in the programme. Tourists can also just go to Telok Melano and then approach any of the houses to ask about the home-stay programme.

At Telok Melano, drinking and bathing water is obtained from the mountain. Electricity is from the generators. Usually, a few families would share a generator and electricity comes on from about 6:00 p.m. to 12:00 midnight. According to our host, the government actually spent a large sum of money to build a mini-hydro station to provide electricity. However, water to turn the turbine was strong enough for one or two hours only each day. It was eventually abandoned.

The beach and sea of Telok Melano is beautiful too. It is definitely much more beautiful than Tanjung Aru Beach of Sabah or Sematan Beach, especially to the west of the village. Arriving from Sematan during high tide, the boat that took us there berthed in the sea about a hundred foot from land. The water that greeted us was clean and clear and the beach sandy and beautiful. It was a big different from the beaches at Sematan. I would have jump into the water for a swim had we not go for the trip to Tanjung Datu immediately afterwards.

At low tide, the beach stretches far out to the sea. It's gentle slope and clean sand is so much more beautiful in the evening sun. There is a small stream to the west of the beach where a Chinese family lived. The reflection of coconut trees in the calm stream brings out a beautiful scene. Looking at the village across the wide expanse of beautiful, sloping beach really takes your breath away.

Telok Melano is also an excellent place to collect sea shells. They are not exactly very big but they are certainly varied, colourful and beautiful. My wife did not seem to have had enough of sea shells at Sematan. She was picking more sea-shells here and she was telling me the sea shells at Telok Melano were so much more colourful and beautiful. We were told that larger shells could be collected at very low tide. Unfortunately, very low tide was in the night when it was too dark to see. There seemed to be more shells on the eastern shore.

(We put up at this lodging house at Sematan, before leaving for Telok Melano the next day)

(Leaving Sematan bazaar for Telok Melano)

(View on the way to Telok Melano from Sematan)

(Pulau Talang-Talang Besar and Talang-Talang Kecil)

(Kampung Telok Melano - the modern building in the centre was a school)

(Coming in to land at Kampung Telok Melano on our arrival)

(View of Kampung Telok Melano in the evening - I love the emerald green sea)

(We stayed here)

(Our host living room)

(Our homestay room)




(If you love collecting sea shells, you can find plenty of them at Kampung Telok Melano)















(Chit-chatting with our host when it was too dark to stroll around)

(Sunrise at Telok Melano)

Part 1: Tranquil and Pristine Tanjung Datu

(This post was first written for www.worldisround.com in 2004. Time has passed, and what was true then may no longer be so. For example, the bridge across the Kayan River in Lundu has now been completed. The bus station in front of Kuching General Post Office is also no longer there. So read this as a travelogue from a time past. Some amendments have also been made.)


I first read about Tanjung Datu and the home-stay programme at Kampung Teluk Melano in a local newspaper last year. The article excited me because it spoke of the clean and beautiful beach at Tanjung Datu. It certainly sounded like paradise. However, there was scant information on how to get there and any thought of visiting these places quickly evaporated.

About two weeks prior to this year's Gawai Dayak holidays, I thought of walking down memory lane to Sematan Beach, a place I first visited when I was a secondary school student in Kuching. It was there that I saw the sea and waves the first time! You see, I was from Bintangor, a place far removed from the sea. It has been many years since then. In my search for travelling information to Sematan, I discovered beautiful descriptions of Tanjung Datu and Telok Melano again. So, I decided to go there, passing through Kuching, Lundu and Sematan along the way from Sibu.

How beautiful is Tanjung Datu? I have been to Manukan, Mamutik and Sapi, three out of the five islands that made up the beautiful and famous Tunku Abdul Rahman Park of Sabah. It is as beautiful as Manukan, the best of the five. Probably better. Unlike Manukan which has only a short stretch of beach, the beach of Tanjung Datu is so long, so clean, so soft to tread on, and there are beautiful granite boulders lying on the beach and in the water, making a picturesque scenery. The beaches slope gently into the clean calm South China Sea. Anybody will be tempted to jump and frolic in the crystal clear turquoise green water. No kidding. I did that. Leave your footprint in the beautiful golden sand to announce your presence.

Tanjung Datu is a place where you can truly be yourselves, to let your hair down without anybody watching you. It is an extremely quiet and lonely place and you have almost the whole place to yourselves to play in. The only other human beings are a handful of employees of Sarawak Forestry Corporation and they are based at the Park HQ on one end of the beach only. Walk to the other end of the beach and you will be all alone. There will not be anybody watching you, no tourists, nobody at all. Play as you like, scream and shout as you like, jump in and out of the water, do anything you like, and be children again. Have fun of your life. Let go of all the stress from work and you will feel so good. You will feel carefree and happy, and life has indeed a meaning again. God has given this place to you to enjoy. A tranquil and pristine land. Isn't that paradise?

Being there would also give you the supreme right to brag to your friends that you have been to land's end of Sarawak. Not many Sarawakian have done so and you could be one of them.

Tanjung Datu is in fact Sarawak's latest and smallest National Park. Once you have enough of the beaches and sea, you can go trekking. According to Sarawak Tourism.com, there are three existing trails. The first is Telok Melano - Telok Upas - Tanjung Datu HQ Trail. This 1½-3hr trail starts at the village of Telok Melano and ends at the Park HQ. The second is the Tanjung Antu Laut Trail. This 1-2 hour loop trail is mostly quite flat, starting at the Park HQ, and ending at Tanjung Antu Laut. The third is Viewpoint Trail. This is a short but steep 15minute walk to a viewpoint built on the southern arm of the bay at the park HQ.

According to some sources, Tanjung also has a small beautiful coral formation off the beach. This unexplored site is ideal for scuba diving and snorkelling. However, I do not know where the location is exactly. Tanjung Datu is also one of the few places where turtles come to lay their eggs.

While in paradise, do not lost touch with time. You still have to return to Telok Melano. There is no accommodation for tourists at Tanjung Datu. No place to eat and drink. Just nature and you.

(Map of Tanjung Datu National Park, Western Tip of Borneo)

(The sea between Kampung Telok Melano, a coastal Malay village and Tanjung Datu National Park)

(The beach at Tanjung Datu National Park, Sarawak)

(Turtle's Nest)

(The space in front of the National Park Office)

(The Eastern Shore of Tanjung Datu National Park Beach)

(The best and cleanest beach in Sarawak is here at Tanjung Datu National Park)

(You don't see a soul here. That's tranquility)

(The Western Shore of Tanjung Datu National Park Beach)

(The constant drizzle compelled me to leave the beautiful beach early. I regretted that decision later)

(Approaching Kampung Telok Melano, where we put up for the night)

I am thinking of going back to Tanjung Datu again. I have not enjoyed the tranquility enough. I should have come back again the next morning after having spent one short afternoon there a day earlier. There were many other beautiful spots which I did not go because of rain. What luck! I have yet to explore the western end of the shore, to the furthest point where there are so many granite boulders along the shore. I have not gone to Teluk Upas, a beautiful short strip of white sandy beaches just a short distance from Tanjung Datu. According to our boatmen, most tourists go swimming and snorkelling there. It is accessible on foot from Tanjung Datu. I also have not gone on the trails yet. There is still so much more to discover and enjoy.